Alein \u00ed heiminum, \u00feekkjum engan, og enginn \u00feekkir okkur \u2013 j\u00fa, reyndar er \u00fea\u00f0 ekki alveg r\u00e9tt \u2013 allir \u00feekkja manninn minn og heilsa honum me\u00f0 handabandi. Hann er h\u00e9r a\u00f0 kenna, og \u00e9g er ritari del \u201cprofessore\u201d<\/i>. H\u00e9r ver\u00f0um vi\u00f0 \u00ed tvo m\u00e1nu\u00f0i, l\u00edklega tvo k\u00f6ldustu m\u00e1nu\u00f0i \u00e1rsins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n
\u00cdb\u00fa\u00f0in okkar er l\u00edtil en notaleg \u2013 og hiti \u00e1 ofnunum. \u00dev\u00edl\u00edkur muna\u00f0ur eftir Andal\u00fas\u00edu, \u00fear sem vi\u00f0 vorum b\u00f3kstaflega a\u00f0 kr\u00f3kna \u00far kulda, ur\u00f0um a\u00f0 safna eldivi\u00f0i \u00ed arininn og sofa \u00ed n\u00e1ttf\u00f6tum undir d\u00fans\u00e6ng. Verst var a\u00f0 fara \u00e1 f\u00e6tur \u00e1 morgnana og \u00feurfa a\u00f0 st\u00edga fram \u00e1 \u00edskalt steing\u00f3lfi\u00f0. \u00de\u00e1 langa\u00f0i mig mest til a\u00f0 fara upp \u00ed aftur og b\u00ed\u00f0a vorsins undir heitri s\u00e6nginni.<\/p>\n
\u00dearna su\u00f0ur fr\u00e1 finnst m\u00f6nnum \u00fea\u00f0 \u00f3\u00fearfa l\u00faxus a\u00f0 einangra h\u00fasin s\u00edn. \u00dea\u00f0 er sumar n\u00e6stum allt \u00e1ri\u00f0, hvort e\u00f0 er, og \u00fea\u00f0 er h\u00e6gt a\u00f0 kl\u00e6\u00f0a af s\u00e9r kuldann. Enda heyr\u00f0i \u00e9g \u00fe\u00e1 aldrei kvarta. Fari\u00f0 bara \u00fat, ef ykkur er kalt, s\u00f6g\u00f0u \u00feeir. Og miki\u00f0 r\u00e9tt, \u00fati var ekkert kalt \u2013 alla vega heitara en inni. M\u00e1ttur s\u00f3larinnar v\u00edkur fyrir myrkrinu um \u00feetta leyti \u00e1rs, og \u00fea\u00f0 andar k\u00f6ldum raka um \u00feunna veggi. Samt elska \u00e9g Andal\u00fas\u00edu.<\/p>\n
Varla hefur s\u00e9st til s\u00f3lar h\u00e9r \u00ed Tartu, fr\u00e1 \u00fev\u00ed vi\u00f0 komum \u2013 samt eru li\u00f0nar sex vikur. Sk\u00fdin hanga yfir borginni lon og don, haggast ekki dag eftir dag. S\u00f3lin er \u00fearna einhvers sta\u00f0ar, en okkur er sagt, a\u00f0 h\u00fan l\u00e1ti ekki sj\u00e1 sig fyrr en \u00ed ma\u00ed. \u00c9g sit vi\u00f0 voldugt skrifbor\u00f0 undir st\u00f3rum glugga, og horfi yfir \u00e1 r\u00e1\u00f0h\u00fasi\u00f0, sem er \u00ed hjarta borgarinnar og tr\u00f3nir efst \u00e1 torginu. \u00dea\u00f0 minnir \u00f3neitanlega \u00e1 gl\u00e6sta fort\u00ed\u00f0 r\u00fassneska keisaraveldisins \u2013 byggt \u00ed n\u00fdklassiskum st\u00edl, bleikt \u00ed grunninn.<\/p>\n
Framan vi\u00f0 r\u00e1\u00f0h\u00fasi\u00f0 er skondin stytta, sem stingur \u00ed st\u00faf vi\u00f0 klassikina allt um kring. Eins konar afsteypa af ungu f\u00f3lki a\u00f0 l\u00e1ta vel hvort a\u00f0 \u00f6\u00f0ru \u2013 \u201cThe kissing students\u201d. Vi\u00f0 fyrstu s\u00fdn fannst m\u00e9r \u00feau vera lifandi \u2013 alv\u00f6ru f\u00f3lk. \u00deau standa undir regnhl\u00edf \u2013 h\u00fan \u00e1 h\u00e1um h\u00e6lum \u2013 \u00fati \u00ed mi\u00f0jum gosbrunninum og kyssast \u2013 eins og \u00feau eigi allan heiminn og heimurinn s\u00e9 bara til fyrir \u00feau.<\/p>\n
Ef \u00feetta er ekki \u00e6\u00f0ruleysi, hva\u00f0 er \u00fea\u00f0 \u00fe\u00e1? Kannski kaldh\u00e6\u00f0ni? En ma\u00f0ur \u00fearf l\u00edklega a\u00f0 vera b\u00e6\u00f0i \u00e6\u00f0rulaus og kaldh\u00e6\u00f0inn til a\u00f0 lifa af tilraun til \u00fej\u00f3\u00f0armor\u00f0s. Sl\u00edk tilraun var ger\u00f0 \u00e1 eistnesku \u00fej\u00f3\u00f0inni \u2013 og \u00fea\u00f0 ekki fyrir svo m\u00f6rgum \u00e1rum (um \u00fea\u00f0 leyti sem \u00e9g var l\u00edtil stelpa \u00ed Reykjav\u00edk). \u00de\u00fasundir manna, kvenna og barna, voru fluttir nau\u00f0ungarflutningi til S\u00edber\u00edu. \u00dea\u00f0an \u00e1ttu f\u00e1ir afturkv\u00e6mt. A\u00f0eins hinir hraustustu lif\u00f0u af.<\/p>\n
F\u00f3lk er \u00e1 \u00fe\u00f6num fram og til baka um torgi\u00f0, l\u00edtur hvorki til h\u00e6gri n\u00e9 vinstri, d\u00fa\u00f0a\u00f0 \u00ed sk\u00f3s\u00ed\u00f0ar k\u00e1pur, me\u00f0 h\u00fafur, trefla og vettlinga. Allir \u00e1 lei\u00f0 \u00ed h\u00e1sk\u00f3lann \u2013 geri \u00e9g r\u00e1\u00f0 fyrir \u2013 sta\u00f0r\u00e1\u00f0nir \u00ed a\u00f0 lifa af, \u00fer\u00e1tt fyrir grimm\u00fa\u00f0lega fort\u00ed\u00f0, og hva\u00f0 svo sem framt\u00ed\u00f0in kann a\u00f0 bera \u00ed skauti s\u00e9r.<\/p>\n
Um \u00feri\u00f0jungur \u00edb\u00faa Eistlands eru R\u00fassar. \u00deeir voru \u00e1 s\u00ednum t\u00edma fluttir inn \u00ed sta\u00f0 \u00feeirra \u00fe\u00fasunda, sem hurfu \u00ed gulagi\u00f0. \u00c9g heyr\u00f0i einhvern t\u00edma Lennart Meri, fyrrverandi forseta Eistlands, segja, a\u00f0 r\u00fassneski bj\u00f6rnin hef\u00f0i bara fengi\u00f0 s\u00e9r blund \u2013 hann mundi von br\u00e1\u00f0ar vakna aftur. Bj\u00f6rninn skyldi \u00fe\u00f3 ekki vera a\u00f0 skr\u00ed\u00f0a \u00far h\u00fd\u00f0i s\u00ednu einmitt n\u00fana?<\/p>\n
Tartu l\u00e6tur ekki miki\u00f0 yfir s\u00e9r, en h\u00fan leynir \u00e1 s\u00e9r \u2013 r\u00e9tt eins og konurnar, d\u00fa\u00f0a\u00f0ar \u00ed sk\u00f3s\u00ed\u00f0ar k\u00e1pur me\u00f0 h\u00fafur og vettlinga. \u00dea\u00f0 er ekki fyrr en \u00fe\u00fa fer\u00f0 \u00fat \u00e1 g\u00f6tu, k\u00edkir fyrir horn e\u00f0a on\u00ed dj\u00fapa, hvelfda kjallara, a\u00f0 borgin f\u00e6r l\u00edf og lit, ver\u00f0ur spennandi.<\/p>\n
Og \u00fea\u00f0 er alveg eins me\u00f0 konurnar. \u00de\u00e6r leyna \u00e1 s\u00e9r. N\u00fa eru \u00fe\u00e6r sestar vi\u00f0 bor\u00f0 me\u00f0 rau\u00f0um d\u00fak \u00e1 vinalegu kaffih\u00fasi. Undan vetrarh\u00fafunni fellur s\u00ed\u00f0ur haddur, \u00fdmist d\u00f6kkur e\u00f0a lj\u00f3s, eftir \u00fev\u00ed hvort konan er af r\u00fassneskum e\u00f0a eistneskum \u00e6ttum. Undir \u00feykkri k\u00e1punni leynist grannvaxinn l\u00edkami, sem er ekki endilega \u00e1 valdi hinnar al\u00fej\u00f3\u00f0av\u00e6ddu t\u00edskul\u00ednu, sem \u00e6\u00f0ir um heiminn, heldur hefur sinn eigin st\u00edl og fer eftir efnum og a\u00f0st\u00e6\u00f0um. Konur h\u00e9r minna mj\u00f6g \u00e1 finnskar systur s\u00ednar, l\u00e1tlausar og a\u00f0la\u00f0andi. \u00c9g hef \u00fea\u00f0 \u00e1 tilfinningunni, a\u00f0 \u00fe\u00e6r hafi r\u00e1\u00f0 undir rifi hverju og l\u00e1ti ekki stj\u00f3rnast svo glatt.<\/p>\n
B\u00fa\u00f0ir hafa lagst af \u00ed mi\u00f0b\u00e6num (r\u00e9tt eins og \u00ed Reykjav\u00edk, allar horfnar \u00ed Kaupamaja – Kringluna). \u00cd sta\u00f0inn eru komnar bj\u00f3rstofur, jasskl\u00fabbar, v\u00ednkjallarar og veitingah\u00fas. M\u00e9r finnst einhvern veginn, a\u00f0 vi\u00f0 \u00feurfum a\u00f0 koma vi\u00f0 \u00e1 \u00f6llum \u00feessum st\u00f6\u00f0um \u2013 a\u00f0 vi\u00f0 megum ekki missa af neinu \u2013 en t\u00edminn styttist \u00f3\u00f0um. Einn er minimaliskur, annar klassiskur, \u00feri\u00f0ji kitsch og enn einn b\u00fd\u00f0ur manni a\u00f0 reykja vatnsp\u00edpu og fara \u00ed sauna \u00e1 eftir. \u2013 Nudd fylgir, ef ma\u00f0ur er mj\u00f6g a\u00f0framkominn.<\/p>\n
H\u00e9r \u00ed bakgar\u00f0inum \u00ed h\u00fasinu okkar er samt besti sta\u00f0urinn. \u00c9g veit ekki, hvernig \u00e9g \u00e1 a\u00f0 l\u00fdsa honum \u2013 kolsvartur me\u00f0 hv\u00edtt loft. \u00c1 veggjum hanga lostafull m\u00e1lverk \u00ed anda Goya. T\u00f3nlistin er t\u00e6landi, s\u00f3farnir mun\u00fa\u00f0arfullir, sessurnar mj\u00fakar og maturinn br\u00e1\u00f0nar \u00e1 tungunni eins og hunang og smjer. \u00dea\u00f0 vantar bara, a\u00f0 einhver standi upp og lesi upp \u00far Lj\u00f3\u00f0alj\u00f3\u00f0unum fyrir gestina, sem eru a\u00f0allega \u00e1stfangnir st\u00fadentar \u2013 og svo einn og einn \u201cprofessor\u201d \u00e1 vafas\u00f6mum aldri \u2013 eins og vi\u00f0!<\/p>\n
\u00dea\u00f0 er erfitt a\u00f0 standa upp \u00far mj\u00fakum s\u00e6tum og ganga \u00fat \u00ed n\u00e6turkuli\u00f0. En vi\u00f0 erum heppin, \u00feurfum bara a\u00f0 ganga upp stigann, og \u00fe\u00e1 erum vi\u00f0 komin heim.<\/p>\n
\u00c9g nefndi alla \u00feessa bj\u00f3rkjallara, sem leynast dj\u00fapt \u00ed j\u00f6r\u00f0u vi\u00f0 hverja g\u00f6tu. \u00deeir bj\u00f3\u00f0a g\u00f6ngum\u00f3\u00f0um brj\u00f3stbirtu vi\u00f0 kertalj\u00f3s, sem l\u00fdsa upp n\u00e1ttmyrkri\u00f0. Um daginn r\u00e1kum vi\u00f0 augun \u00ed skilti, sem \u00e1 st\u00f3\u00f0: \u201cSchram Keller\u201d<\/i>. Og undir nafninu var mynd af svipsterkum herramanni \u2013 svei m\u00e9r, ef \u00e1s\u00fdndin minnti ekki \u00e1 f\u00f6\u00f0urfr\u00e6ndur m\u00edna! Sta\u00f0arhaldarinn sta\u00f0festi, a\u00f0 Herr Schram<\/i> hef\u00f0i stofna\u00f0 kr\u00e1na \u00e1ri\u00f0 1815 (upp \u00far Napoleonstr\u00ed\u00f0unum, muni\u00f0i?) Forfa\u00f0ir minn kom til \u00cdslands fr\u00e1 Schlesvig-Holstein um \u00feetta sama leyti. \u00deeir skyldu \u00fe\u00e1 ekki hafa veri\u00f0 n\u00e1fr\u00e6ndur \u2013 \u00fe\u00f3 svo annar h\u00e9ldi \u00ed nor\u00f0ur en hinn \u00ed austur?<\/p>\n
Alla vega reyndist sta\u00f0urinn hafa s\u00edn tengsl vi\u00f0 \u00cdsland. Hann bau\u00f0 upp \u00e1 fimm tegundir af \u00cdslandsbruggi. \u00dear \u00e1 me\u00f0al fl\u00f6sku, sem \u00e1 st\u00f3\u00f0 \u201cEinst\u00f6k \u2013 Icelandic White Ale, s\u00e9rframleiddur \u00e1 Akureyri\u201d. (Hvers vegna hann er hins vegar fluttur inn af \u201cPacific Palisades, California, USA\u201d), er m\u00e9r hulin r\u00e1\u00f0g\u00e1ta.<\/p>\n
En \u00e1\u00f0ur en \u00e9g l\u00fdk \u00feessu, \u00e6tla \u00e9g a\u00f0 draga or\u00f0 m\u00edn til baka um suddave\u00f0ur h\u00e9r \u00ed Tartu. S\u00f3linni t\u00f3kst a\u00f0 ry\u00f0ja burt sk\u00fdjunum, og n\u00fa sk\u00edn h\u00fan sem aldrei fyrr. \u00c9g \u00e6tla a\u00f0 ganga ni\u00f0ur a\u00f0 \u00e1nni, setjast \u00fear \u00e1 bekk og fylgjst me\u00f0 kr\u00e1kunum og d\u00fafunum, sem n\u00fa eru \u00ed \u00f3\u00f0a \u00f6nn a\u00f0 para sig fyrir vori\u00f0.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
\u00deetta er \u00e6vint\u00fdri l\u00edkast. Allt \u00ed einu erum vi\u00f0 komin til Tartu, sem er h\u00e1sk\u00f3lab\u00e6rinn \u00ed Eistlandi, r\u00e9tt undir landam\u00e6rum R\u00fasslands. H\u00e6gt a\u00f0 skreppa \u00ed stutta r\u00fatufer\u00f0, hvort sem er til P\u00e9tursborgar e\u00f0a Kyiv.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-171","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized","category-greinar_og_vidtol"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/jbh.is\/bs\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/171","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/jbh.is\/bs\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/jbh.is\/bs\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jbh.is\/bs\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jbh.is\/bs\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=171"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/jbh.is\/bs\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/171\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":541,"href":"https:\/\/jbh.is\/bs\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/171\/revisions\/541"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/jbh.is\/bs\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=171"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jbh.is\/bs\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=171"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jbh.is\/bs\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=171"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}